And.......There's a More!

The afternoon game drive was somewhat uninspiring to start. We were on the hunt for hippo sightings. Both the Sabi and the Sand Rivers flow through the reserve. I am paranoid about hippos. We were charged two years ago in Zambia and that might be why. We saw a few in the water and left it at that.

After a lot of bumpy driving around we came upon a lioness and four small cubs in the middle of the road. One cub was hers and she was babysitting the other three! We could hear the Cubs meowing. Once in a while the lioness snarled at them. Unbelievable to watch.

Then off again to an appointment. This turned out to be a special sundowner in a clearing for the whole lodge. Entertainers and everything. Delightful.

On our way back to the lodge it got dark. The engine got turned off and we sat in darkness. While we were discussing constellations we could hear a lion huffing near by. Wow!

There were more dancers entertaining at the lodge. All for New Years Eve. I was grabbed by the hand to dance with one of the performers. What could I do? The kids thought it was hilarious. But they got their turn, too.

Dinner was set up down below on the river bed. Lanterns everywhere. Very, very festive! A whole springbok had been barbecued. It was delicious! A very delightful evening!

We are not staying up to see in the new year because we have a game drive at six AM as usual!

Very Close Encounters

After yesterday, I don't know what there is left to say. However, on this morning's drive I did not need binoculars. Within 10 minutes we drove into a breeding herd of elephants. Two big moms started to make their way towards us. We all got quite nervous. Our guide told us to trust him that these elephants were not aggressive. We sat very still as they reached the vehicle. After a while they lost interest and sauntered off. 

Next, we came across two big male lions. They were so close, 8 feet or so away. One of them opened its yellow eyes and stared at us. The guide advised us not to stare back!

Then a beautiful, young female leopard, walked in front of us, completely unconcerned.

Within half an hour a big male leopard was loping on the road. It was marking its territory with squirts of urine. The guide pointed out the smell of it (we were that close again) and it was the smell of buttered popcorn. I am not kidding!

Dumay, the ranger, suggested a bush walk for tomorrow. Yikes! Do I dare??

It does not feel like New Year's Eve one bit!!

A Leopard at Last!!

What an afternoon game drive we had today! My heart is still racing! First off, we finally found a leopard. A lovely big male trying to have a nap under a tree. It's belly was heavily distended from a recent big meal.

Great, we thought. How can the leopard sighting be topped. We soon found out! Let's look for some rhino, says our ranger. Off we go on the very bumpy trails. We get into a wooded area and suddenly around a corner we surprise and are surprised by a group of 5 black rhino. Black rhino have pointy mouths, are a bit smaller and much more aggressive than white rhino. They also had a calf with them. 

Immediately they came at us. The ranger banged his hand on the side of the vehicle's metal door and that stopped them and they ran off. We were told that it is special to see one black rhino but we saw FIVE! 

We passed some more Cape Buffalo (freaky things, too) and stopped for a sundowner in a big clearing. Visibility is good for when we all get out of the vehicle. You can see animals approaching.

We are ready now to go back to the lodge and dinner. However, we now have a flat tire! All those bumpy roads! Everyone has to get out of the vehicle. To add an edge to the experience three white rhinos are near by and approaching us. We all are instructed to stay on the far side of the vehicle. I use my binoculars to make sure they are the (somewhat) gentler white variety. The tire is changed in record time and we hop back in. 

The light is rapidly fading by now. Suddenly, we spot two lionesses right in front of us in hunting mode. They completely ignore us. Impala near by are vocalizing a warning to their kind. All around us we hear a hissing sound like steam bring released. Really quite amazing. 

When it is almost dark we reach the lodge and a spectacular dinner outside in a boma, complete with a fire and lanterns everywhere, is waiting for us. I am not sure how we are going to top all of this tomorrow!

Lion Family Photo Op

This morning we were on our way again at 6 AM. It is very lush here because of the heavy rain in the last few days. The roads we follow are a mere two tracks full of pot holes and right now lots of big puddles. It feels lovely to be driving around in the early morning fresh air in an open vehicle. 

We come upon a lion family with four cubs, two of whom still have spots. We watch their antics for about 20 minutes. One small inquisitive cub wanders over to us and you can imagine it to be a regular house cat. It is that small. 

We are still on the look out for the elusive leopard. There have been sightings this morning. Once, when the engine was turned off, we could hear her huffing call in the distance. Very thrilling.

We also saw two brother lions lying in an open area quite far from the road. All you could see were their big, maned heads sticking up above the tall grass.

Cape Buffalo, continued.

Had a problem with my I-pad. Key board disappeared. Jeff fixed it! 

Anyway, that elephant was very ornery and we kept out of his way. You could totally smell it. Very musky!!

We get taken to our room. No fences here at all! Here and there some elephant dung lying around.

We are still hoping to see a leopard.......

Cape Buffalo in Lion Sands

After two short flights we arrived safely in Lion Sands River Lodge near Kruger National Park. It is malarial here so we have all started taking our Malarone at breakfast. There is mosquito netting around our beds. Kind of romantic, like a poster bed.
We had our first game drive here already and we encountered a herd of breeding elephants with the tiniest member, only about 3 to 6 months old. The most impressive (and scary) was the herd of Cape Buffalo. We were surrounded by them. Some had oxpeckers on them, eating ticks. I was a bit nervous because they are supposed to be the most dangerous animals. Very aggressive. However, they ignore a vehicle. We also followed a massive male elephant in musk. It exuded a strong musky smell, meaning

Sunday Evening Game Drive

At 4:30 we all climb back into the Toyota Land Cruiser for the afternoon drive. The sky is very threatening and before long the sky bursts open with a terrific deluge. We all huddle in our cosy ponchos and hope for the best. I can't stop giggling during this wet adventure. The vehicle we are in is amazing but even it has trouble getting through the mud. At one point we get stuck and I have visions of spending the night outdoors. Luckily, Gerrit manages to turn around and sticks to the main tracks which are still passable.

Besides the rain, two more wonderful things happen. A herd of elephants with small babies crosses the road in front of us. Then, to top off the day, the sun comes out and we enjoy a stunning sunset complete with a rainbow.

Jeff and I are taking a pass on tomorrow morning's game drive. It will be a long day as we make our way to Lion Sands River Lodge near Kruger National Park, our last stop before heading home on Friday.

Zebras and the like.....

Got up again at 5 AM. Thinking, why are we doing this? In the first half hour of the game drive all is quiet. Then, all of a sudden, we spot a rhino walking towards us on the dirt road. Rhinos are very endangered because there is so much poaching. The horns are worth thousands on the black market even though they are the same material as our finger nails. I feel for these creatures. They are gentle grazers, at least the white rhinos. 

We stop for a coffee break and are surrounded by a dazzle of zebras. They seem unconcerned with our presence. What a treat! We are allowed to get out of the vehicle.

There is word on the radio that the big lion pride is nearby. On our way we pass a journey of at least six giraffes. Such funny animals with their super long necks. Soon we arrive at the spot where the pride is sleeping. The big male is to the side whereas the females and Cubs are all huddled together. They are so sociable. Very peaceful. They might open an eye when a vehicle starts its engine.

Time to head back to the lodge for breakfast. But now we hear that a leopard has been found in a tree with its kill. We hurry down but just too late. The leopard has left the tree. It suddenly begins to pour. Ponchos on, again. We are near the lodge when we spot, at the side of the road, a 3 meter long black mamba snake. One of Africa's deadliest. It is actually a greyish green colour but known for the blackness of the inside of its mouth. This was a thrilling encounter. It slithered quickly into the brush.

After a hearty breakfast we are in our rooms for a break........

Zebras and the like.....

Got up again at 5 AM. Thinking, why are we doing this? In the first half hour of the game drive all is quiet. Then, all of a sudden, we spot a rhino walking towards us on the dirt road. Rhinos are very endangered because there is so much poaching. The horns are worth thousands on the black market even though they are the same material as our finger nails. I feel for these creatures. They are gentle grazers, at least the white rhinos. 

We stop for a coffee break and are surrounded by a dazzle of zebras. They seem unconcerned with our presence. What a treat! We are allowed to get out of the vehicle.

There is word on the radio that the big lion pride is nearby. On our way we pass a journey of at least six giraffes. Such funny animals with their super long necks. Soon we arrive at the spot where the pride is sleeping. The big male is to the side whereas the females and Cubs are all huddled together. They are so sociable. Very peaceful. They might open an eye when a vehicle starts its engine.

Time to head back to the lodge for breakfast. But now we hear that a leopard has been found in a tree with its kill. We hurry down but just too late. The leopard has left the tree. It suddenly begins to pour. Ponchos on, again. We are near the lodge when we spot, at the side of the road, a 3 meter long black mamba snake. One of Africa's deadliest. It is actually a greyish green colour but known for the blackness of the inside of its mouth. This was a thrilling encounter. It slithered quickly into the brush.

After a hearty breakfast we are in our rooms for a break........

Rain on the African Plain, and Pics

It IS the rainy season and it poured this morning on our early game drive. However, we were saved by wonderful ponchos that were part cosy blanket and part raincover. The kids were good sports to show up at 5:30 on such a wet day. And........we were all rewarded. First off, a journey of six giraffes. Then a nice dazzle of zebras. Then, after lots of radio contact, a pride of 16 lions eating a small zebra killed this morning. What a sight! They all looked a bit bedraggled because of the rain. 

We have just had breakfast and are in our rooms and probably headed for a nap and shower.

First Madikwe Safari

After some tea and cake (really) we boarded the safari vehicle and set off in the reserve, with Gerrit as our guide. At first there was nothing to be seen. But suddenly we came upon a herd of elephants. Moms and their babies. At the back of the group was a big bull at least 4 meters (12 feet) high. Very intimidating. I was a bit nervous along with Erin. It did not help that I had just read a book about elephants (the elephant whisperer). Later, we saw at least 100 by a watering hole.

We were also lucky with rhinos. We saw at least 6 of those. Lots of wildebeest, too.

There is a watering hole right below the deck where we ate dinner and a large herd of Cape Buffalo showed up. So now we have seen three of the Big Five. Still left are lion and leopard.

Dinner was at 8:30 and my body said forget it. So I had a small green salad and got escorted to my room (a free standing thatched hut) by a guard with a flashlight and loaded rifle (no guff). 

Tomorrow up at 5 when we are promised some lions. I will try to post pics tomorrow.

There are lots of insects here, big ones! Slightly yucky! Especially at night, like now.

Yes, Janette, the roads are bumpy here, too. Rocky dirt roads. 

Arrival at Etali Lodge, Madikwe

We all managed to get up on time for our 5:15 departure. An hour's drive and then Cape Town airport for our 7:15 flight toJohannesburg. A quick transfer to a small airport for our hour long flight in a 12 seater plane to Etali Lodge. We are now minutes from the Botswana border. We flew at only 1100 feet and more and more clouds showed up. We had to fly through them, which is bumpy. 

Upon arrival there were not one but two thunderstorms rapidly approaching. We were picked up by a safari vehicle. Gerrit, the driver, tried to beat the rain but that did not work. It came at us like hail and we all got soaked. My hair was plastered back on my head and Caitlyn thought I looked like someone from the 60's. The earth is a deep red here and a lovely, musty smell enveloped us as the ground got wet. Without trying, we saw a family of warthogs, some gazelle and a few zebras.

Our room is lovely. Indoor and outdoor shower plus a plunge pool. Very private and quiet.

At 4:30 we go on a game drive and I can't wait to see the kids' reaction when they see their first lion!

I will write about it tonight, hopefully with a photo.

By the way, there is an electric fence right behind our deck. I wonder why............

Franschhoek -Christmas Day

We got up to overcast skies (the first since we arrived) and had a lovely breakfast which included......my raisin bread with almond paste in the middle! Then Jeff and I went with Jackson to a small church near by where there was an English language service. It is a Shofar (Hebrew horn) Christian congregation. They were extremely welcoming to us. Oddly, there was not one stitch of Christmas decoration to be seen. When the young pastor came up to the front the first words out of his mouth were.......for unto us a child is born. Unto us a son is given, etc. Lots of clapping and verbal agreeing throughout the service. Really powerful and moving. Loved it! The others in our group badly needed to sleep in. 

We went to Dieu Donne winery (gift of God-ironically) for our Christmas lunch buffet. The food was just OK (we have been spoiled) but it was still a fun family time. The highlight, however, came after the lunch when the kids discovered a large troop of baboons nearby on the road. They were delighted because they had not seen any yet. There were at least 20 in the troop. We were reminded that we were still in Africa. 

Tomorrow we get up at 4:45 AM to catch a flight to Johannesburg at 7:30 AM and then a small plane for an hour to Madikwe, where it is supposed to be 35 degrees tomorrow.  

Franschhoek- Christmas Eve

We have arrived in Franschhoek where there is excellent WI-FI. Unfortunately not much to tell. It is a lovely wine town and is famous for the Hugeunots who arrived here after persecution in France. They brought their wine making skills to South Africa many years ago. Hence the name, French Corner.

It is warm out and does not feel like Christmas. Not much hoopla about it here at all. We have found an English language Christmas service tomorrow at nine, within easy walking distance. We hope to go there. Then the plan is a buffet Christmas lunch at a nearby winery. I am not feeling very svelte lately because the food so far has been VERY good. 

I wish anyone reading this a wonderful Christmas wherever you find yourself!

I hear the kids laughing and giggling in the pool outside. We had a several hours drive today so it is great to relax now!

Learning about the cave art

Bushman Cave Art

This morning we walked over rocks to get to one of many sites on the reserve that has cave drawings. These are anywhere from two thousand or more years old. It is as a lovely, quiet spot, too, and you could imagine people living there. 

Pics of starlight dinner

Dinner under the stars

Last night we had a surprise destination for dinner. We were taken to a rocky area with a big staircase. On top was a large deck with tables set for dinner. Lanterns and candles everywhere. There was a buffet style dinner. When it got really dark the stars popped out like I have seldom seen. We all had big discussions about the Milky way, etc. It will be hard to beat this experience. Today off to a cave with bushman paintings. But first I have to get out of bed.........

Pics of first safari, Bushman's Kloof

Monday morning walk

At 7:30 this morning we all left in the land cruiser and were dropped off what seemed like the middle of nowhere and began our two hour walk on a barely discernible trail. Not to worry. Simone from the lodge was our guide. It was an easy hike compared to what we did around the Cape. Finally, over the next hill we saw, in the distance down below, a simple shepherd's hut. When we reached it a table was spread out for us with a delicious breakfast. Eggs were prepared over an open fire. Giant eucalyptus provided shade. Really spectacular. This was at least nine kilometres from the main lodge. 

Right now we are resting on lounge chairs under a tree. We are getting a bit tired so probably good to rest for a bit. Later on today, at five, we do another game drive.

The Orphanage and Bushman's Kloof.

Wow! What a day today. We left the hotel at 8:15 and made a stop at the orphanage in a township. Most of the the time we were in the part that housed children under five. We had them on our laps or in our arms. The girls gave them stickers and engaged with them. It was all very powerful, emotionally. 

After this visit we drove for several hours to get to Bushman's Kloof. This is a gorgeous lodge in the middle of nowhere. The landscape is very rugged with jagged rocks and chasms. The colour of the rocks is anywhere from red to gold. Altogether stunning. 

Upon arrival high tea was waiting for us, with scones, etc. This was followed by our first safari drive, in a Land Ranger. We saw springbok, bontebok, red hartebeest, eland, Cape zebra and ostriches. The kids squealed with delight. 

We had a lovely dinner outside. I was too tired to eat much. I am now in my cosy room and can hear crickets chirping outside.

Tomorrow we get up at 7 to do a 2 hour walk before breakfast. Today's pics will have to wait until tomorrow.

Pics of Silver Mine Hike Two

Starting the hike today, with Jack, and Ryan in the background.

The cave we visited.

Making our way to Kalk Bay and lunch.

South African penguins at Boulder Beach near Simon's Town.

Silver Mine Hike Number Two

Today we did our third hike. We wanted an active holiday and we are sure getting it. We again went to the Silver Mine area, which is part of Table Mountain National Park. We made our way through rolling fynbos and up a ridge to a big cave. We rested in there and then continued over the mountain to the other side where we gradually descended to Kalk Bay where we had a fish and chips lunch. There is a fisherman's wharf there with whole freshly caught fish all laid out on the pier. The kids were very excited when a massive sea lion (called a Cape furred seal here) hauled itself out of the water onto the pier and let itself be admired by many onlookers. But don't get too close. It snarls!
After our lunch we headed to Boulders Beach near Simon's Town where there is a resident colony of South African penguins. They used to be called Jackass Penguins because they vocalize like mules.
We are nearing the end of our stay here as tomorrow we head for Bushman's Kloof. But first a visit to a township.

A few more Cape point pics

We are having some difficulty with pics. Theses are a bit blurry but you get the idea.

Here we are high above the ocean. It was less scary than it looks here.

Cape Point Pics

The Internet here is a bit frustrating. We will keep trying. Here is one pic of the start of the hike. We learned the hard way the day before about the importance of hats and sunscreen. I want to post two more pics. But here is one.....